Chin Care
Diet
Pellets: Chinchillas should be fed a high quality chinchilla or show rabbit pellet. The pellet is the main of a chin’s diet, providing all the nutrients the chin needs. Please stay away from feed with treats! The chinchilla digestive tract is very sensitive and the treats found in these feeds can cause long-term health problems. Some pellet brands I recommend are Oxbow, Mazuri, or Manna Pro, Manna Gro or even Manna Sho. Our breeding chins are fed Manna Gro and our pet chins are fed Manna Pro. When buying pellets, make sure they are fresh! Check the mill date of the pellets (typically found on the tag or the bottom of the bag). Vitamin content of pellets remains potent for only 6 months. If your feed is 6 months over the mill date, toss it. If you decide to change your chin’s feed, do so slowly, mixing the new feed with the old and gradually increasing the amount of new feed. The entire process should take about a month. Any sudden changes in diet can cause digestive upsets.
Hay: Chins should always have a free supply of fresh, quality hay. Hay is an excellent source of fiber, necessary for keeping their intestinal tract healthy. Also, chewing on loose hay prevents back teeth from becoming overgrown, developing "points", and causing dental problems. A good blend for healthy teeth includes a variety of grass hay (timothy, bermuda, orchard grass) in first and second cuts (Oxbow timothy has both 1st and second cuts) and small amounts of a coarser grain hay (oat, wheat, barley). Hay cubes can also be used but should be provided in conjunction with loose hay as the cubes do not help nearly as much with the grinding of the back teeth.
If your chin’s pellet is alfalfa-based, a grass hay should be offered. Timothy, orchard grass, and bermuda are all grass-type hays. We feed Timothy hay to our chins in addition to home grown bermuda grass, and oat hay from our local feed store. If the pellets are timothy-based, then alfalfa hay can be fed in conjunction with the timothy. Alfalfa is a sugary hay and should not be fed with alfalfa pellets as it is too rich and too high in protein. Pregnant, lactating, or growing chins can be fed some alfalfa in addition to timothy but in all other situations, timothy is the main hay.
Water: A fresh supply of water in a bottle should be available at all times. Water bottles should be cleaned and fresh water replaced daily to prevent any bacterial growth. We recommend bottled purified water (not distilled). If tap water is to be used, be sure it is filtered with a system that filters out Giardia, a water-borne parasite. A reverse-osmosis filter generally works the best at filtering out any microorganisms and leaving the important trace minerals (iron, for example).
Treats: Treats are not a necessary part of a chin’s diet and can actually cause more harm to good, leading to poor eating habits and health problems. If treats must given, please give healthy treats! Most treats at the pet store are not chin-safe or healthy. Some acceptable treats are non-frosted shredded mini-wheat, plain Cheerio, rosehips, whole oats, or dried dandelion greens. These can be given once every 1-2 days. Raisins and dried papaya are loved by chins but I do not recommend giving these types of sweet treats. The excess sugar in these are not the best for your chin and personally, I DO NOT give any dried fruit or sugary treats because they are not necessary and chinchillas do just fine without it. Chins under 6 months of age should never be given treats – stick to the staples during this time.
Hay: Chins should always have a free supply of fresh, quality hay. Hay is an excellent source of fiber, necessary for keeping their intestinal tract healthy. Also, chewing on loose hay prevents back teeth from becoming overgrown, developing "points", and causing dental problems. A good blend for healthy teeth includes a variety of grass hay (timothy, bermuda, orchard grass) in first and second cuts (Oxbow timothy has both 1st and second cuts) and small amounts of a coarser grain hay (oat, wheat, barley). Hay cubes can also be used but should be provided in conjunction with loose hay as the cubes do not help nearly as much with the grinding of the back teeth.
If your chin’s pellet is alfalfa-based, a grass hay should be offered. Timothy, orchard grass, and bermuda are all grass-type hays. We feed Timothy hay to our chins in addition to home grown bermuda grass, and oat hay from our local feed store. If the pellets are timothy-based, then alfalfa hay can be fed in conjunction with the timothy. Alfalfa is a sugary hay and should not be fed with alfalfa pellets as it is too rich and too high in protein. Pregnant, lactating, or growing chins can be fed some alfalfa in addition to timothy but in all other situations, timothy is the main hay.
Water: A fresh supply of water in a bottle should be available at all times. Water bottles should be cleaned and fresh water replaced daily to prevent any bacterial growth. We recommend bottled purified water (not distilled). If tap water is to be used, be sure it is filtered with a system that filters out Giardia, a water-borne parasite. A reverse-osmosis filter generally works the best at filtering out any microorganisms and leaving the important trace minerals (iron, for example).
Treats: Treats are not a necessary part of a chin’s diet and can actually cause more harm to good, leading to poor eating habits and health problems. If treats must given, please give healthy treats! Most treats at the pet store are not chin-safe or healthy. Some acceptable treats are non-frosted shredded mini-wheat, plain Cheerio, rosehips, whole oats, or dried dandelion greens. These can be given once every 1-2 days. Raisins and dried papaya are loved by chins but I do not recommend giving these types of sweet treats. The excess sugar in these are not the best for your chin and personally, I DO NOT give any dried fruit or sugary treats because they are not necessary and chinchillas do just fine without it. Chins under 6 months of age should never be given treats – stick to the staples during this time.
Housing and Environment
Caging: For a single adult pet chin, a minimum cage size is 24”x24”x18” but you can always go larger. The wire spacing for adult chins should be 1” x 1” or 1” x 2” and if there are any wire floors/shelves, wire should be ½” x ½” or ½” x 1”. Kits should be housed in cages which have wire spacing of 1/2" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 1" or smaller in order to prevent them from escaping. I prefer solid floors and shelves to prevent any broken toes and limbs. For easier cleaning, slide-out floor pans are best and should be lined with a safe bedding. Kiln-dried pine, aspen, or Carefresh bedding are all recommended as safe. DO NOT USE CEDAR! The oils in cedar are toxic and will cause respiratory illnesses.
Your pet chinchilla’s cage should have many ledges for jumping on. These should not be made of plastic as your chinchilla will chew and ingest the plastic, which can be fatal! In addition to ledges, a hide box should be provided so the chin has a safe retreat when scared or tired. These should be made out of kiln-dried pine for safe chewing. Please DO NOT purchase plastic igloos for chins. Most chinchillas will chew them and this poses a risk for impaction!
Click Here to learn how to make your own Chin Cage by LY Chinchillas!
Temperature: Because of their dense coats, chinchillas need a cool environment. Any warmer than 75 degrees F and your chins are in danger of heat stroke. Chinchillas keep cool by losing heat through their ears so if your chin’s ears are pink and the blood vessels are enlarged and bright red, you need to cool him down. An air conditioner is necessary for chinchilla ownership here in California due to our high temperatures.
Some helpful cooling items in emergency situations (power outages, broken A/C, etc.) are Chinchillers, marble slabs, which can be kept in the refrigerator and given to chins to lay on or frozen water bottles wrapped up in a cloth or fleece bottle holder. These should only be used in emergency situations though as they will only provide short-term relief from the heat. If it is warm in your chin’s room and he is lethargic, laying stretched out, or panting with bright red ears, cool him off and get him to the vet ASAP!
Humidity: Chins cannot tolerate high humidity as it prevents them from losing the heat from their ears to cool off. Coupled with high temperatures, high humidity can make a chin especially susceptible to heat stroke. In extremely humid climates, a dehumidifier may be necessary. In less humid climates, just having an A/C may work well enough to keep the humidity at bay.
Your pet chinchilla’s cage should have many ledges for jumping on. These should not be made of plastic as your chinchilla will chew and ingest the plastic, which can be fatal! In addition to ledges, a hide box should be provided so the chin has a safe retreat when scared or tired. These should be made out of kiln-dried pine for safe chewing. Please DO NOT purchase plastic igloos for chins. Most chinchillas will chew them and this poses a risk for impaction!
Click Here to learn how to make your own Chin Cage by LY Chinchillas!
Temperature: Because of their dense coats, chinchillas need a cool environment. Any warmer than 75 degrees F and your chins are in danger of heat stroke. Chinchillas keep cool by losing heat through their ears so if your chin’s ears are pink and the blood vessels are enlarged and bright red, you need to cool him down. An air conditioner is necessary for chinchilla ownership here in California due to our high temperatures.
Some helpful cooling items in emergency situations (power outages, broken A/C, etc.) are Chinchillers, marble slabs, which can be kept in the refrigerator and given to chins to lay on or frozen water bottles wrapped up in a cloth or fleece bottle holder. These should only be used in emergency situations though as they will only provide short-term relief from the heat. If it is warm in your chin’s room and he is lethargic, laying stretched out, or panting with bright red ears, cool him off and get him to the vet ASAP!
Humidity: Chins cannot tolerate high humidity as it prevents them from losing the heat from their ears to cool off. Coupled with high temperatures, high humidity can make a chin especially susceptible to heat stroke. In extremely humid climates, a dehumidifier may be necessary. In less humid climates, just having an A/C may work well enough to keep the humidity at bay.
Health
Dental Health: Because chins are rodents, they have teeth that will grow continually throughout their entire life. In addition to hay, chins must be provided with items to chew on, otherwise their teeth will become overgrown, leading to loss of appetite and inability to eat. A chin with overgrown incisors will need to see a vet to have the teeth filed or trimmed. In severe cases, lack of chewing can cause the open roots of the teeth to grow downward into the jaw and upward into the eye socket, which can be fatal. Some common safe woods for chins to chew are apple, aspen, cholla (actually a cactus), manzanita, pear, kiln dried pine, pecan, and poplar. Many chin toys are made out of these woods. Also safe for chewing are pumice stones such as the Super Pet Lava Bites. Providing your chin with chew toys will lead to good dental health.
It is also important to check the color of your chin's teeth, an indicator of calcium deficiency. Chins should have burnt-orange/yellow-colored teeth. Chins on a high-quality pelleted diet will get the calcium they need from their feed but pregnant/lactating chins may need a supplement. A chin with pale yellow or white teeth is in need of calcium and a vet should be consulted for a safe way to provide calcium for your pet.
Diarrhea: Chinchilla stools should be moist and solid but NOT squishy. Diarrhea can be caused be excess treats, a change in diet, parasites, bacterial infections, or even stress. If your chin has soft poos, remove all pellets and feed only hay and water for a few days. No treats should be given during this time! Also helpful is plain shredded wheat and activated carbon (available at a health food store) which helps firm up the stools and bind to any toxins. Acidophilus or Benebac can also be given to support your chinchilla's digestive flora. If your chin's poos are runny, a dose of Kaolin Pectin can also help. However, these recommendations are not to replace a vet visit - diarrhea is NOT normal and can be a secondary symptom of a GI problem or parasites. If your chin has diarrhea, please take him to the vet for an examination.
It is also important to check the color of your chin's teeth, an indicator of calcium deficiency. Chins should have burnt-orange/yellow-colored teeth. Chins on a high-quality pelleted diet will get the calcium they need from their feed but pregnant/lactating chins may need a supplement. A chin with pale yellow or white teeth is in need of calcium and a vet should be consulted for a safe way to provide calcium for your pet.
Diarrhea: Chinchilla stools should be moist and solid but NOT squishy. Diarrhea can be caused be excess treats, a change in diet, parasites, bacterial infections, or even stress. If your chin has soft poos, remove all pellets and feed only hay and water for a few days. No treats should be given during this time! Also helpful is plain shredded wheat and activated carbon (available at a health food store) which helps firm up the stools and bind to any toxins. Acidophilus or Benebac can also be given to support your chinchilla's digestive flora. If your chin's poos are runny, a dose of Kaolin Pectin can also help. However, these recommendations are not to replace a vet visit - diarrhea is NOT normal and can be a secondary symptom of a GI problem or parasites. If your chin has diarrhea, please take him to the vet for an examination.